Applying Makeup Powder

Makeup is a applied to the face to set a foundation after application and minimize any extra ‘shine’. Also, powder tones the face and gives an even appearance. Since, there are many variations among human skin tones, there are corresponding varieties of face powder colours. Carefully made powders can protect the skin from aberrations likely to be produced by exposure to heavy lighting & certain kinds of environmental stresses.Generally, powder comes packed either as a compact or as loose powder. It can be applied with a sponge, brush, or powder puff. Uniform distribution over the face is achieved more easily when a loose powder is applied. Apply powder evenly with the eyes and lips kept closed. Once it appears even, wait for some time till it sets with the base. Extra, if found in any area, remove the same with a smooth brush. Do not attempt to blow them off; it might remove Powder from other areas and is not hygienic. Powder seen on eyelashes and lips must be removed, as said above. Lips must be wiped with a moist tissue; only the area where lipstick has to be applied.

Applying Pancake

Using pancake is the choice of the makeup artist. Recall the suggestions given under “applying Foundation’. Damp a soft sponge (or very soft brush) and take some pancake on it.Start blending pancake all over the face. Blend the makeup around eye areas, around nose, near ears, neck and hairline. After applying one layer, wait for few minutes and let the makeup settle on the skin. For a heavier coverage do not start stroking with a damp sponge again. After application, pancake makeup gets extremely dry and gives a complete matte look.For adding more layers to achieve full coverage, spray a little amount of water on face. Wait for two to three minutes. While the face is still damp, start blending a new layer of pancake makeup. To get a sharp nose, prominent cheekbones and defined jaw line, start contouring the face. This sort of contouring is needed only if foundation is just evenly applied; refer back if needed. Otherwise, just apply a very thin layer only to get the expected final skin tone. Use deep or dark shade of pancake for contouring. Using pancake will change the face’s skin tone from the rest of the body. Therefore, do not forget to apply pancake (the apt tone) also on those parts likely to be seen even partly, after wearing costumes and ornaments.

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Applying Rouge (Blush)

Rouge/Blush or Blusher is used to redden the cheeks so as to provide a more youthful appearance, and to emphasize the roundness of the cheeks. Several shades of red are available as compacts and powders. To make a face appear wider, a dark shade should be applied from the middle of the lower part of the eyes over to the temples. A lighter colour can be applied on the top part of the cheekbones. To make a face appear narrower, a dark shade of rouge could be applied near the hairline and outer edges of the face, stopping at eye level. In addition to the cheek and eye areas, the rouge can also sometimes be dusted on the forehead, nose, and chin, if necessary. This is quite similar to the process of contouring. To decide all these, a clear ‘Understanding of the Structure and Nature of the Face’ is indispensible. Select the rouge, compact or powder as one prefers, that most closely match with the tone closest to the one after (if) pancake is applied. As with any makeup, if a colour that is too far removed from the base is chosen, the subtlety of well-applied makeup will be lost.

As said above, since applying rouge is also to emphasize the roundness of the cheeks, it is necessary to clearly identify this part by locating the cheek bone by feeling that area with fingers. Dip a brush into the rouge and gently tap off any excess powder back into the pan, till the desired level of redness is achieved. If this is not done, the extra rouge is likely to be too heavy and too red. Start with small amounts and gradually add more rouge as necessary. Apply rouge on the ‘apples of the cheeks’ (the most rounded part of cheeks) working the brush in a circular motion. Gradually and softly move the brush towards the temples, roughly parallel to the end of the brow line. Blend the rouge up and outward so that there isn’t a noticeable makeup line. A makeup line occurs when there is a sharp difference between the base tone and the colouring of the makeup used.

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Lining Eyebrows

1. "If the Eyes are the windows to the Soul, then the Eyebrows are the eye-catching Curtains.” This becomes more significant when we refer to eyes & brows in Naatya, in which facial expressions are to be handled meticulously.

2. The arching of the brows and lining of the lower and upper eyelids play an important role in the study of the Biology of Attraction; important signals of our emotions too.

3. Eyebrows also have an important facilitative function in strengthening expressions, such as surprise, anger or sexiness. Many makeup artists view eyebrows as a major feature in defining the face. The eyebrows shape the human face and give definition to one’s eyes and forehead. Wrong shape of the eyebrows, can become a strong cause for a ‘False Facial Expression’.

4. As a person’s face ages, her/his brows descend closer to the eye and tend to become thinner. The distance between the beginnings of the brows in relation to the midline on the forehead closer to the upper part of the nose is one important pointer to the age of a person. Closer they are in the more aged, and away in the less aged.

Relation between the Shapes of Faces and Shapes of Brows - Only the very important ones useful for practical purposes

All artists need to know the importance of eyebrows at least as much as the text above speaks of, so that the performer on the stage can confidently use them to bring forth the subtle details of what he/she wants to express.

Note : However, in the styles of Naatya under discussion here, Aahaarya also has to fall within Naatyadharmi(stylization). At the same time, the intended sculptural beauty of the face should not become totally drawn away from the ‘human feel’, as we notice in the character makeup styles in Krishnanaattam, Koodiyaattam Kathakali etc. That means, exaggeration and a decorative nature are important to the extent of giving ‘Life’ to the ‘Sculpture’ expected on the stage.

The basic materials to prepare the above notes have been taking from the following source: *(‘The Role of Eyebrows in Face recognition’- Perception, 2003, volume 32, pages 285 - 293 - Javid Sadrô, Izzat Jarudi, Pawan Sinhaô Department of Brain and Cognitive Sciences, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 45 Carleton Street, E25-201, Cambridge, MA 02142, USA)

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